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Thailand 23/02/02 - 09/03/02

Khao Lak Bay Front Resort Day Two

Excitement and constipation get the better of us, and some head for the beach, others to the toilet well before dawn, the full moon luring us both(!) The hotel has three perfectly placed palm trees at the edge of the beach to give the whole place symmetry. At night these, the pool and the pool bar are lit up, along with the paths through the grounds. It's hard to resist photography, and tonight it is possible thanks to a very clear sky and a bright full moon, chasing the sun to the same horizon.

Breakfast takes on a simple form, but the whole set up of the hotel reminds us of the Datai on Langkawi - a paupers version of course - and in spite of the fact that the piped music isn't that bad, if only they had a pianist it would give it that extra air of exclusivity. The fact is that this stretch has long been discovered by Germans, and all bar two or three other couples are Krauts. The old rumours run true, as we wisely remembered to put our beach towels out before dawn.


We used today as an excuse to acclimatise our skin to the inevitable heat of the rest of our stay by lying in the sun. This after booking two exciting excursions - neither of which are sold to us by reps! Tomorrow we take a speedboat to the Similan islands, where, as we've never scuba'd, we will snorkel above 30 metre visibility at one of the worlds ten best dive sites. To top this the following day we are to take a trip to a nearby beach to see baby turtles hatching and swimming off into the sea - a rare treat. Ah, tourism!

We need cash, and at lunch stroll along the beach to the Laguna Resort hotel where we are told there is an exchange. This and other hotels along this stretch (notably the Andaman) and very tastefully landscaped into the coastline, and far more exclusive than our little billet. Money changed we decide to check out Khao Lak central, some 2km along the beach from the Bay Front Resort. It consists of half a dozen ramshackle beach hut businesses, where it seems almost any service is provided, and we are amazed to see that you can have a suit made for you in 24 hours, even here! We pick a particularly funky beach bar/restaurant called Tukta's to have a lovely lazy lunch in, and sit in big polished chairs carved out of huge chunks of driftwood. The place is seriously cool, and if the surf was better would be a typical surf-dude hang out. The delicious food takes it's time, but there is amusement in the form of dreadlocked stray dogs and a fresh juice stall owned by one crazy couple. Mrs A orders red curry prawns and I have a fresh squid salad. We drink from fresh coconuts, and once again are amazed by paying £3 for all this.

We return to our stretch where Mrs A gets a proper Thai massage on the beach just along from our hotel, to the sound of the soothing waves. I choose to ride out the experience in a deck chair, occasionally looking up from my postcard writing to see Mrs A's contorted body taking a pounding! Not surprisingly most of it is enjoyed thoroughly, but Mrs A tells me she will now have to sign a waiver at the chiropractors having had this rogue treatment. She comes away with a warm all-over glow, but points out that this is not for the faint-hearted. Sleep, swimming and sunbathing follow (not necessarily in that order) before the sun ploughs into the sea, we are almost alone on the beach by the time thoughts turn to G 'n' T.

Khao Lak beach massage Khao Lak sunsets

Dinner is oh-so-fresh raw tiger prawns in garlic and chilli followed by steamed whole Garoupa and Pad Thai Goong (spicy noodles with prawns and peanuts) at the neighbouring Sunset Beach Hotel, before retiring to the privacy of our own veranda to listen to the hubbub of German chatter at the pool bar before we turn in.
Summary | Bangkok | Bangkok Day Two | Khao Lak Bay Front Resort | Khao Lak Day Two | Ko Similan Islands
Turtle Conservation Festival | Leaving Khao Lak for Pimalai Resort, Ko Lanta | Ko Rok Snorkelling
Pimalai Resort and Ko Lanta Driving Tour | Leaving Thailand
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